A rackety, open-air railway arch serving world-class Basque-style seafood over wood fire, where the atmosphere is as loud and energetic as the cooking is precise.
Ordering Strategy
Ideally, come with a group of 3-4 to justify ordering the whole turbot or large crab. If dining as a couple, load up on the excellent small plates (anchovy bread, leeks, hake collars) to avoid blowing the budget on one item.
What to order
Whole Grilled Turbot
The restaurant's namesake ('Brat' is Old English for turbot); it is slow-grilled over smouldering embers until the vinegar-spritzed skin 'both crisps and softens.'
Beef Ribs
Described as 'Flintstone-esque' and a 'big, showy' sharing item, these wood-grilled ribs are served as a 'headliner' alongside sides like smoked potatoes.
Grilled and buttered white bread
A 'Bible-thick slab' that critics call a 'very good steer' for mopping up the rich juices and sauces from the seafood and small plates.
Basque Burnt Cheesecake
Parry is credited with making this dish a modern icon; this version features a charred exterior and is served with vanilla sauce and rhubarb compôte.
Fritto Misto
A seasonal mix (such as hake, squid, or Flourish Farm produce) featuring 'lacy batter' and 'pristine frying' that critics say a top tempura chef could hardly better.
More in Hackney
- Café CeciliaModern British / Irish · £££90
- Marksman Public HouseBritish Gastropub · £££89
- Big NightBritish-Japanese Skewers / Izakaya · ££85
Signal Score
Signal score reflects how strong and consistent the review coverage is, not a star rating.
Top critic: Jay Rayner (90%)
Editorial Weight 59 pts
Authority + depth + recency
Agreement 8 pts
How aligned the critics are
Coverage 8 pts
How many real review signals exist
Public Signal 7 pts
Google rating + volume
Boosts 0 pts
Manual boosts + hidden gem
Review signals
1 Elite · 1 Editorial · 4 total signals
Public signal
4.3★ (776 reviews)
Good to know
The venue is essentially a permanent marquee in a courtyard; it can get chilly in winter or hot in summer, and trains rumble loudly overhead. The menu is written on a blackboard, so take a photo when you arrive.
Locations
Trust signals
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- mediumConfidence level
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