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Koya

Name: Koya
Price range: ££
Rating: 4.3

An authentic, minimalist Japanese noodle bar where chefs knead dough by foot to produce London's springiest udon in a serene but fast-paced setting.

Cuisine

Japanese Udon

Price

££

Neighborhood

Soho

Status

On radar

Ordering Strategy

Solo diners should head to the Soho counter for the best experience. For optimal noodle texture, order 'Hiya-Atsu' (cold noodles, hot broth) or 'Hiya-Hiya' (cold/cold) rather than hot noodles which can soften quickly.

What to order

Safe first

Smoked mackerel with fresh herbs and leaves on a bed of udon with a sensationally good sauce

A cold dish that was 'so vividly flavoured, and yet also so fresh and (thanks to the veg) so sharply green-tasting, that it added up to a perfect winter cheerer-up.' The noodles had 'a mystifying depth of flavour and a perfect texture'.

Hungry

Beef atsu-atsu

Slow-cooked brisket, falling into shreds, with a broth of beautifully judged weight, meaty and enveloping without being too rich.

Wildcard

English breakfast udon

A cult-famous fusion dish featuring egg, bacon, and shiitake mushrooms, now served kamatama style, in which the heat of the noodles 'cooks' a raw egg yolk into sauce.

What to skip

Skip

Mixed tempura— One side dish of mixed tempura included banana – what's that all about? Reviewer advises to skip them and stick to the udon.

Good to know

The Soho location does not take reservations and queues are common; Koya City takes bookings. Breakfast is a major draw.

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